Bladerunners homemade waterblock - Page 2

RichBa5tard · 3rd August 2003, 13:50

Welcome to our forum, Bladerunner.

Your schematic shows a great way to divide the relativly cold water from the cpu in 4 to the other parts of your system. Great job!

One question: do you never get tired of working hours to just switch one broken/outdated (eh, 2 months old) component? I'm selling my H²O setup, because testing another videocard/mb/cpu ment draining the fluid, detaching tubes, ... Maybe when i've got plenty space & time again i'll start h²o cooling again. It's been a great experience...

- edit -
None of your pics show a rad, how do you cool your fluid?

3rd August 2003, 16:04

In my set-up the CPU block adds less than 0.5C to the water-temp in one pass, so the fact the other, (less import), blocks get output from the CPU block will make no noticeable difference as far as I can see.

sometimes I get fed up with it when there is some problems or I make mistakes reconnecting it but mostly I enjoy fiddling with it all. With the way I run the tubes and the thinner fetso fittings on all other system blocks, I can always get the VGA card out of the slot and far enough away from the PC so i can fit another, (with standard cooling), if need be without having to disconnect the water system.

Up till two days ago I've been using a 100 litre tank mounted 8 foot underground, (a schematic HERE with more about it on my site via the stealth cooling link), and it gives about 12C to 16C coolant temps depending on time of year. However an imminent house move means for now I'm using a very big rad, (with no fan atm), more on that HERE

3rd August 2003, 18:17

What temp does that block keep your processor at please and at what voltage and speed?

Thanks,
Craig

3rd August 2003, 19:13

Not sure how useful this type of information really is, as it's open to all manor of possible reporting errors etc, but I'll give you the here & now.

CPU = XP 2500 Barton @ 2400mhz 1.95v

PC room ambient = 30.0C

Rad ambient = 25.5C (mounted in a cooler place with desk fan now blowing at it on low setting).

PC Inflow Water temp = 27.2C / PC Outflow water temp = 28.0C

CPU temp = 35C underload reported in MBM5, using socket diode with it bent to better contact the backside of the CPU, along with thermal paste on the tip

3rd August 2003, 20:13

Nice, thanks for that, nice block

4th August 2003, 01:04

bladerunner are u selling your old blocks

btw: do u have a cnc machine @ home

4th August 2003, 10:10

I'm keeping all the one offs I make for the moment, but will hopefully be trying to make some limited production coolers in the future. Looking into the best ways to make them as true to my one offs as possible for others to buy.

No CNC at the min, but I want one. I'm using a basic but good hand wheel mill for the major machining, the finishing is done by hand with files, silicon carbide paper, T-cut polish, elbow grease etc. Details of the mill and finishing process are in the articles on my site

www.zerofanzone.co.uk

4th August 2003, 12:37

the mill machine looks very nifty

but where do you get al those barbs, the "innovatec-style" ones ?

4th August 2003, 13:13

it's very nice done
the watercooled psu is also very nice

btw bladerunner, do you maybe make those coolingblocks on demand?

4th August 2003, 14:09

The mill appears to go under a lot of different names in various parts of the world, Mine was a Sip 30, But Enco & Rong Fu are others that appear the same as is one Machine Mart sell.

Was given this link the other day where some one has made the Enco version mill into a CNC. A lot of work but nice results, check it out Here to get a movie of it in action go Here.

The Push fits are made By Festo, and sourced locally, I've also used some made by Norgren, but there are many other makes.

3rd August 2003, 13:50	#11
RichBa5tard [M] Reviewer/HWBot ***** Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 3,344	Welcome to our forum, Bladerunner. Your schematic shows a great way to divide the relativly cold water from the cpu in 4 to the other parts of your system. Great job! One question: do you never get tired of working hours to just switch one broken/outdated (eh, 2 months old) component? I'm selling my H²O setup, because testing another videocard/mb/cpu ment draining the fluid, detaching tubes, ... Maybe when i've got plenty space & time again i'll start h²o cooling again. It's been a great experience... - edit - None of your pics show a rad, how do you cool your fluid? __________________ HTPC (mac osx): Mac Mini \| Core Duo 1.6Ghz \| 2GB DDR2 \| 26\" TFT Development (mac osx): Macbook \| Core 2 2.0Ghz \| 4GB DDR2 \| 250GB HD Games (win xp): E2160 @ 2.4Ghz \| HD3850 OC \| Asrock 4coredual-vsta \| 2GB DDR2

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3rd August 2003, 16:04	#12
BladeRunner Posts: n/a	In my set-up the CPU block adds less than 0.5C to the water-temp in one pass, so the fact the other, (less import), blocks get output from the CPU block will make no noticeable difference as far as I can see. sometimes I get fed up with it when there is some problems or I make mistakes reconnecting it but mostly I enjoy fiddling with it all. With the way I run the tubes and the thinner fetso fittings on all other system blocks, I can always get the VGA card out of the slot and far enough away from the PC so i can fit another, (with standard cooling), if need be without having to disconnect the water system. Up till two days ago I've been using a 100 litre tank mounted 8 foot underground, (a schematic HERE with more about it on my site via the stealth cooling link), and it gives about 12C to 16C coolant temps depending on time of year. However an imminent house move means for now I'm using a very big rad, (with no fan atm), more on that HERE

3rd August 2003, 18:17	#13
CCW Posts: n/a	What temp does that block keep your processor at please and at what voltage and speed? Thanks, Craig

3rd August 2003, 19:13	#14
BladeRunner Posts: n/a	Not sure how useful this type of information really is, as it's open to all manor of possible reporting errors etc, but I'll give you the here & now. CPU = XP 2500 Barton @ 2400mhz 1.95v PC room ambient = 30.0C Rad ambient = 25.5C (mounted in a cooler place with desk fan now blowing at it on low setting). PC Inflow Water temp = 27.2C / PC Outflow water temp = 28.0C CPU temp = 35C underload reported in MBM5, using socket diode with it bent to better contact the backside of the CPU, along with thermal paste on the tip

3rd August 2003, 20:13	#15
CCW Posts: n/a	Nice, thanks for that, nice block

4th August 2003, 01:04	#16
vegeta Posts: n/a	bladerunner are u selling your old blocks btw: do u have a cnc machine @ home

4th August 2003, 10:10	#17
BladeRunner Posts: n/a	I'm keeping all the one offs I make for the moment, but will hopefully be trying to make some limited production coolers in the future. Looking into the best ways to make them as true to my one offs as possible for others to buy. No CNC at the min, but I want one. I'm using a basic but good hand wheel mill for the major machining, the finishing is done by hand with files, silicon carbide paper, T-cut polish, elbow grease etc. Details of the mill and finishing process are in the articles on my site www.zerofanzone.co.uk

4th August 2003, 12:37	#18
vegeta Posts: n/a	the mill machine looks very nifty but where do you get al those barbs, the "innovatec-style" ones ?

4th August 2003, 13:13	#19
The Entity Posts: n/a	it's very nice done the watercooled psu is also very nice btw bladerunner, do you maybe make those coolingblocks on demand?

4th August 2003, 14:09	#20
BladeRunner Posts: n/a	The mill appears to go under a lot of different names in various parts of the world, Mine was a Sip 30, But Enco & Rong Fu are others that appear the same as is one Machine Mart sell. Was given this link the other day where some one has made the Enco version mill into a CNC. A lot of work but nice results, check it out Here to get a movie of it in action go Here. The Push fits are made By Festo, and sourced locally, I've also used some made by Norgren, but there are many other makes.